Fear of death, drowning, injury, the loss of a team mate in a huge, violent and wild sea… the perfect storm to cause days of anxiety.
Panic is not an option when facing waves bigger than houses, far off the coast in freezing temperatures where risk is at a premium.
Lives are on the line in the pursuit of the biggest waves on the planet.
Belief in myself, in my team, in each other a necessity.
We all go out, we all come back, no man is left behind.
In this book I explain how as a Big Wave Surfer I have become expert at handling anxiety and fear and transferred those skills to lots of other areas in everyday life.
I am not a trained writer, a mental health professional, a doctor of psychology. This is not a book of research.
This is a real account of dealing with anxiety and facing fear.
When everything feels like it is against you, when you feel like you are drowning, keep swimming
You will turn the tide!